I have got e-mail asking me more about how I develop Neopan in Paterson
Aculux 2. I have wrote so long answer, which I can believe can be useful to
somebody else as well.
I am using Neopan for quite some time (few years) and with Aculux 2 for
about two years. You can search my journal for Neopan and you will get a
lot of links. Use google for search using this term "Neopan
site:piskoftak.com"
I have found Aculux 2 very good developer for this film. It gives me very
nice tonal range and good contrast. Because it is one shot developer I can
reproduced results by 100%. I am using destilate water to dilute it 1:9. I
always develop 2 films in my tank using 550ml of liquid and inversions are
following:
after puring liquid in I start clock and inverting non-stop for the first
15 seconds. Than on start of each minute I do one slow inversion which take
about 4-5sec. By inversion I mean twisting tank bottom up and back. I
develop like this 12 minutes if there was low contrast subject. (like shots
in rain, or grey weather), if the shots were done on bright sun with higher
contrast I develop only for about 10 minutes.
I need to tell you one think what I observe. Before I used Olympus OM-2n
camera and now I use Nikon F80. On both cameras I mostly use aperture
priority mode. OM-2n is using central weighted exposure metering on F80 I
am using 3D matrix metering. The second (Nikon) exposing less than OM-2n
did. My negatives are better now with F80. Easier to scan and still having
enough details in dark parts. So all and all you need to try it yourself. I
would suggest you shoot one film in subject and light you normally used.
Rate film as normal 400 ASA and develop it for 12 minutes. You will see if
you than need shorter the time or it is ok.
Can you tell me what is your IE and development time
with this film and developer. I didn’t find this information in the
article “Developing b&w negatives “.Do you think your development time
can be compatible with printing with condenser enlarger?
Yes I am sure it will. I am scanning my films and therefore prefer little
less density which is the same what condenser enlarger likes too.
Recently I did a lot of shots in difficult high contrast light, where I
needed do shoot dark subject on light background (people in front of
window). It was rather dark inside I use Neopan 400 and rated it at 800 and
few times even 1600. I used Tetenal Emofin two bath developer to do two
things:
- push the film to 800 and 1600
- compensate high contrast exposure
In both goals Emofin Tetenal excels. I have got good negatives and light
and dark parts where nicely compensated so contrast was lowered and details
in highlight and in shadows kept. Of course grain is more than as exposed
at 400, but still acceptable. This is just side note which can be useful or
you.
I do not know what kind of photography your are doing, but this can be
handy once for you. Tetenal Emofin is German produced developer, which is
rather expensive and I find it very very reactive with skin and everything
around. Marks on everywhere where it drops. Be careful. Paterson Aculux 2
is much easier and I had no problem with it and is also very economical.